Is it this tiny iPhone that I’m using to document this trip or the inclement conditions that abbreviate this travel account? Today I was pleased to get away from the Wee campsite which started off so well and got exciting even with the arrival if the German duo with sidecars (and a Scots bike veteran pointed out to me he knew they were foreign because the sidecars were on the wrong side and I noticed that one had reverse gear so no wonder it manoeuvred so neatly) but it was the family with tantrumming boy and their own very apparent difficulty right next door that drive me nuts. “the professionals say there’s nothing wrong with him but we can’t cope” they complained to each other. They arrived back after 9pm to fry bacon when I was already in my sleeping bag reading Big Sur as it got dark. Before them was another couple with very many children one crying and father losing his rag. That’s camping for you. But today was lovely after my getaway and a lovely ride on the sunshine to Ullapool for bagel and a pot of tea then restock at the last Tesco and throw out that nasty wine that gave me a headache tasted awful and finally leaked in my bag.

Then after I turned left north and all the other traffic turned right so I am on my own to zoom past the sheep and tourists to arrive here at 2.30 where it’s good to arrive early to get the good places mine down by the fantastic cliff though there is a huge space by the entrance with scores of campervans. This is like a separate place, quiet so far, though there is a space next to me. The waves are crashing.

Tomorrow I plan to take the minibus to Cape Wrath then on Monday head back south to Glen Coe again in one day.

It is beautiful and awesome in a way in this site on the edge of a cliff and on the edge of the British Isles. I look over the sea northward and wonder where the next land is. But we are also exposed here to the rain.