I finally found the long way up there via the villages. My technique was to remember the next three place names that I needed to head for and eventually the GPS worked out where I was going. Missed turnings provide opportunity for U-turn anxieties.
I fingered some items at the BMW showroom but left without succumbing to temptation. I’ve decided, though, that the new liquid cooled GS has one advantage over the Adventures in the showroom – it is not such an intimidating lump.