First day riding the GSA

I couldn’t resist it – I’ve taken the day off to try out this bike….
On my first day of owning this bike I put my continent-crunching world-beating GSA through its paces – Destination Tescos in Ely. No problems getting out of cambridge. The border formalities were easy. Once on the A14 going west I felt a few drops of rain on my visor. Its well known that one shower on the A14 and the road will be impassable until next Spring. Luckily the rains held off. Some of the tarmac was ‘ever so slightly rough’ but the suspension coped really well. By lunchtime I arrived in Ely, a strange and wild place where banditry and corruption are well-known. Keeping a low profile I parked up the bike in Tesco and went inside to see if there was any food and drink available. With lots of gesticulations and shouting I made myself understood by the workers in Costa Coffee next to the pharmacy and cutomer toilets. On my return into Cambridge I was stopped at a chekpoint where I failed some of the questions on the IQ test. But with a bribe I was allowed in.
On the road I noticed some strange things: other bike riders don’t seem to return my nods any more. Instead I get greetings from the drivers of the following classes of vehicles: agricultural machinery, those big mowers that cut grass verges by the road; also scarecrows in the fields near Cottenham.
So day 1 was good – apart from struggling to get this machine into neutral once its warm. The riding position is good and the windscreen is great – I can ride with visor up now. I don’t know about its acceleration so no overtaking at the moment. It doesn’t feel as nippy as my previous bikes but presumably the power is there doing something.
Most of this post is also copied to the UKGSer website.

Monday 29th June Back in the Czech Republic, south east of Prague

I rode for 8 hours (with two brief breaks in petrol stations). I made much better progress going in a westerly direction than travelling out to Slovakia, there were fewer roads closed and diversions for some reason. They are constantly building roads around here, with those nice circles of stars on a blue background on signs. I rode 264 miles today – there was a large detour as the road to Brno was closed. Max speed 89.3mph (nice work); moving average 43.3mph. Moving time 6 hours 6 minutes (but I thought it was 8 hours).

travelling back West

I was plagued by severe self-doubt for most of the journey. It was brought on by remembering the list of things I should eat and places I should visit in Slovakia written down for me by one of the students at Middlesex who is Slovakian. I did none of them – even though I had the list with me on a page torn out of her notebook and stuffed into my camping guide. What was I doing instead? Its hard to say. I think the trip has been dominated by travelling – getting from one place to another, so stopping idly on the way, and taking in a Mäsové Guľky didn’t figure as I zoomed, knuckles gripping the handle bars tightly, through very many drab villages on the road, getting a glimpse of incredibly old women, bent double almost, walking by the road wearing an apron and carrying an axe. Or there were the dozens of young men with incredibly athletic bodies, with dark dark skin and black hair, working by the road or just standing. I was looking out for Roma. I couldn’t tell the difference between this despised bunch and the normal human population of Slovakia (I would not make a good racist here). I did notice one striking woman with the same dark skin and a perfect, beautiful Roman nose. Does that make her a Roma? I heard from the Dutch owners of the campsite in Slovakia that a nearby hotel was considering employing a roma girl but could not because they were told that everyone else would refuse to work with her and that guests would refuse to stay there (I wouldn’t for one).


So, after these 260 odd miles today, I have ended up in yet another campsite owned by a Dutch person with only one other resident – in a caravan with a tent poking out the side, with two bicycles on the back and a car with Dutch number plates. using the tiled communal washrooms reminds me of the book I have been reading Austerlitz which is about one man’s lack of memory, his discontinuity with his past.

Soviet era campsite buildings maybe

At the age of 4 ½ his parents had him shipped away from Prague in 1939 to avoid the gathering persecutions of Jews by the Nazis. Strangely this book traces routes that I am taking – up to the Hook of Holland to take the boat to Harwich for example. That was 1939. I remember in 1960 and the following few years my own journeys on the night boat to visit Germany. Like the book’s character I remember only fragments – arriving at night at harwich, (we must have travelled there by train from Liverpool Street but I remember nothing of how we got there) walking on a kind of slatted walkway onto the ship, the funnels and the smuts, the cramped cabin with the 4 of us, and being sick. Today you barely know you are sailing. The space of time between Austerlitz’s frightful journey in 1939 to my own holidays is, say, 25 years. The space from my journeys as a child to these recent trips is 45 years. How strange. In fact how strange it is that the war was over for only eleven years when I was born. It must have been so fresh in everyone’s minds when I arrived. So, inspite of missing every cultural opportunity on this trip so far, the fact of moving over Europe has some meaning to it.


This campsite is run by a tall Dutchman with a pleasant but nervous laugh which after it fades turns into some hint of desperation that I have to turn away from. He speaks pretty good English. The woman who he says is his wife does not seem to speak any English at all and I wonder whether she is Czech. Returning to my journey, I was hastened by 50 odd miles on the CZ motorway system,

Life is a crossroad

but after I left it, my GPS guided me down smaller and bumpier roads and track and my anxiety rose that surely this cannot seriously end in a campsite – but it did and the place has a rather ex-communist-camping-in-the-countryside-is-good-for-you feeling. It looked so forlorn I wondered whether it was closed up and I was on the verge of turning back onto the labyrinth of lanes and tracks…. but now I have got the owners to open up the restaurant and serve me a couple of Pilsner Urquells (the first was on the house) and chicken schnitzel and chips which i have just tucked into (interrupted by a quick dash over to my tent to zip everything up because it started to rain). How uch nicer these microwave chips than another meal of pasta and vegetables cooked crouching over my stove. The sun was out and warm an hour ago but now everything is damp again, though the sky is bright. There’s a slightly swollen river by the site and a train track which seems impossibly high in the air behind the tops of some trees. Things are getting slightly chilly. The air is thick with the soundd ov evening birdsong and a noisy extractor vent from the kitchen (that has just cooked me my welcome dinner so I shouldn’t complain).

After another 3 nights under canvass, I’m staying with my cousin and her husband in Germany. I must make a point of gently questioning them about my family’s years after the war which my mum is so reticent about.

My route on day 1

Courtesy of RAC route planner, it should be here:

picture-2

Here’s the route. Interestingly the RAC says it should take 4 hours and 39 minutes. I put the same start and end point into my Garmin Zumo and it estimates 3 hours and 39 minutes with the same route. Maybe the motorcycle-orientated GPS expects you to go faster.

Homeward – arriving in Harwich in three hours

The demands of work have never been far away on this trip and I have missed a couple of things by accident not quite realising that if I were sitting in Denmark I wouldn’t be able to attend meetings in north London.

I had to check out of my motel by 11am which gave me many, rather too many hours to kill to get back the 120k to Esbjerg. The previous night I had tapped in the address of the ferry terminal into my GPS (or so I thought). I took the slow route toward Middlefart with the intention of finding some unsuspecting passer-by to photograph me standing, winking perhaps, next to a sign of the town name. (Thank gooodness I didn’t.) Having bumped into Jack Dowie, world expert in decision-making, earlier before I left, I was asking myself why I then took a turn that meant I would avoid this town with the childishly funny name and hit the motorway instead. Its not what I wanted to do but somehow presented with the opportunity to turn left toward the green motorway sign, I did it. In a motorway picnic area I had my first furtively made-at-the-motel-from-breakfast cheese sandwich. The sun was still shining beautifully. I worked out how to add a detour to my GPS route (I mean intentionally add one) and exited the rather boring motorway for some much nicer A class roads. By now I was not wanting the ride to end and thought about heading down south toward some other towns before going back up but, a little sooner than I expected, my GPS was telling me to turn off toward the ferry terminal. At the time I didn’t think it strange that we were nowhere near any water but I obeyed and started down what looked like a track to a farm with a cul-de-sac sign very visibly by it. In fact it turned out to be a farm track leading to a farm (but usually there is a barking dog in these situations – today there wasn’t). How strange. When I did arrive near the port I realised that probably human error accounted for this. Once I’d put in the correct address I was brought there easily.

There was one other biker and I got into the queue with him. He was riding a blue Yamaha trail bike (that exactly matched my colour) and had been camping for a fortnight in Denmark and Sweden. He showed me his impeccably packed bags which included a full toolkit. This has renewed my slightly flagging enthusiasm to go camping in June – next month! Looking back I can see that this traveller was years ahead of the ‘light is right’ bike movement, complete with soft luggage and extensive toolkit.

Another biker with Yamaha Going home Parked up on the dock


Also in the queue and sitting very firmly at the front was an English gentleman, heavily bearded in his 50s sitting in a beautifully restored 1936 three wheeler (I don’t know the make). On the ground next to the painstakingly polished chrome wheel arch is his similarly shiny chrome thermos flask. He is a fanatical engineer/restorer and also owns, he told me, a 1970s Ducati motorbike. He is reading a German ‘Oldtimer’ magazine which is about men restoring old cars and bikes – with photographs aplenty. He says I can keep it and I realise I’ve left it on the floor of the car deck. – I found it later.)
He engages in detailed mechanical conversation with the Yamaha rider who is also mechanically informed. I wonder for a while whether my next life project should be to become similarly informed and tooled up. I decide not to. Now I engage in talk with him. He is a ship designer. In fact he designed the enormous ship we are about to board. Its 5 years old which apparently is quite old for a ship. He left school at 14 and went into the navy where he started his design career and has been doing it ever since, spending much of the year in the few remaining European cities that still build ships, the Brits having stopped some years ago. He tells me that most ships are made in China or Korea nowadays. He has an intense gaze and speaks with a slight pressure. He’s fanatical about these mechanical things. He says he lives in Cornwall. Somehow I don’t think he has a wife and children as part of his life. We talk about VW Beetles we have both owned and I am shocked that I can remember mechanical details of these cars. My first one had 6volt electrics for example. I can imagine him as a mountaineer. I am attracted to something about the mechanical universe that men like him seem to live in, instead of mine full of doubt, complication and anxiety.

Once on the ferry I am now wise to their huge process (I meant to type ‘prices’) and have my supply of food and wine in my bag. My dinner on the way over cost £52, partly because I had a bizarre misconception about the exchange rate between Kroner and pounds ( remember I had Chablis with my meal). After catching up on some student work and my cabin picnic I settled down to watch Sans Soleil by Chris Marker after which my whole life began to feel poetic – even the continuous sound of the ship’s engine in the night when I went up on deck for a cigarette. I slept soundly and now it is 8.45 ship’s time. We are due to dock in Harwich at noon – no, 1pm Danish time.

The container set
Arriving in Harwich

The journey from Odense to Esberg via a few detours was 88.8 miles; moving average 49mph, highest speed 91.5mph.

Marking work in my nice cabin

Hmm… not a good look. Luckily no one else was in the cabin

Marking some student work here for the last two hours has made me hugely grumpy, marking work for a ridiculous module that is just one more of nursing’s typical exercises in learning to express banal ideas in a convoluted and ultimately unenlightening framework and vocabulary. I feel so sorry for these students having to struggle to learn this pointless skill and how it humiliates them and does exactly the opposite to what higher education is capable of at its best. I need some fresh air on deck. I am obviously cabin crazy.

The journey home is an enjoyable ride through some beautiful essex and suffolk villages.

Trip to Aarhus for a Confirmation

Today I rode the 180 mile round trip to Aarhus to join Niels in his 13 year old son’s Confirmation. This is a big family event involving a church ceremony followed by a lavish party with speeches and songs – about Albert, his son. It was a real insight into Danish family culture. People were hugely generous and went out of their way to speak English to me.

Niels reading out In the church

On the way back I tapped in the wrong address to my GPS. I put in the address I’d just come from instead of the hotel in Odense. As a result I got badly confused and in fact ended up turning into a junction going the wrong way in the traffic. It was a really ragged period of riding – but I made it back in once piece.

Journey detail: 180miles Average speed 55.3mph; max 92.9mph; moving time 3 hours 15 minutes.

A trip to Faaborg and Langeland

Faaborg is a pretty little town with a marina about 30k south of here on the coast and is lovely to cruise around in this beautiful Northern European sun that lights up the terracotta tiles on every roof here. An old south African man made conversation over my bike, saying that it looked Japanese. Some people want to know everything, so after I had told him, yes I had been a nurse, he told me how he had been operated on by Christian Bernard – well, it was actually his brother and he used to know his daughter too, his kidney was smashed and two men arrived in the hospital in dress suits having been called away from dinner, one of them being Christian Bernard’s brother – presumably. The town has a small cobbled market that sells plants and flowers and features a supposedly controversial statue of a giant drinking from a cow’s udder.

Faaborg 18th c merchant house museum in Faaborg



From there I rode along the coast toward Svendborg looking for the bridge over to a small long thin island called Langeland (I wonder why). Of course I got lost and ended up on a small island called – I cant find it in the guidebook. But thanks to my trusty GPs, I made my way across huge bridges to my goal.

Very rural but with a surprising amount of traffic. Ah, but getting back: what a gusty side wind, scary. Phew. No wonder I am having two glasses of wine before 5pm. Pics on my Flickr.