My route on day 1

Courtesy of RAC route planner, it should be here:

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Here’s the route. Interestingly the RAC says it should take 4 hours and 39 minutes. I put the same start and end point into my Garmin Zumo and it estimates 3 hours and 39 minutes with the same route. Maybe the motorcycle-orientated GPS expects you to go faster.

Homeward – arriving in Harwich in three hours

The demands of work have never been far away on this trip and I have missed a couple of things by accident not quite realising that if I were sitting in Denmark I wouldn’t be able to attend meetings in north London.

I had to check out of my motel by 11am which gave me many, rather too many hours to kill to get back the 120k to Esbjerg. The previous night I had tapped in the address of the ferry terminal into my GPS (or so I thought). I took the slow route toward Middlefart with the intention of finding some unsuspecting passer-by to photograph me standing, winking perhaps, next to a sign of the town name. (Thank gooodness I didn’t.) Having bumped into Jack Dowie, world expert in decision-making, earlier before I left, I was asking myself why I then took a turn that meant I would avoid this town with the childishly funny name and hit the motorway instead. Its not what I wanted to do but somehow presented with the opportunity to turn left toward the green motorway sign, I did it. In a motorway picnic area I had my first furtively made-at-the-motel-from-breakfast cheese sandwich. The sun was still shining beautifully. I worked out how to add a detour to my GPS route (I mean intentionally add one) and exited the rather boring motorway for some much nicer A class roads. By now I was not wanting the ride to end and thought about heading down south toward some other towns before going back up but, a little sooner than I expected, my GPS was telling me to turn off toward the ferry terminal. At the time I didn’t think it strange that we were nowhere near any water but I obeyed and started down what looked like a track to a farm with a cul-de-sac sign very visibly by it. In fact it turned out to be a farm track leading to a farm (but usually there is a barking dog in these situations – today there wasn’t). How strange. When I did arrive near the port I realised that probably human error accounted for this. Once I’d put in the correct address I was brought there easily.

There was one other biker and I got into the queue with him. He was riding a blue Yamaha trail bike (that exactly matched my colour) and had been camping for a fortnight in Denmark and Sweden. He showed me his impeccably packed bags which included a full toolkit. This has renewed my slightly flagging enthusiasm to go camping in June – next month! Looking back I can see that this traveller was years ahead of the ‘light is right’ bike movement, complete with soft luggage and extensive toolkit.

Another biker with Yamaha Going home Parked up on the dock


Also in the queue and sitting very firmly at the front was an English gentleman, heavily bearded in his 50s sitting in a beautifully restored 1936 three wheeler (I don’t know the make). On the ground next to the painstakingly polished chrome wheel arch is his similarly shiny chrome thermos flask. He is a fanatical engineer/restorer and also owns, he told me, a 1970s Ducati motorbike. He is reading a German ‘Oldtimer’ magazine which is about men restoring old cars and bikes – with photographs aplenty. He says I can keep it and I realise I’ve left it on the floor of the car deck. – I found it later.)
He engages in detailed mechanical conversation with the Yamaha rider who is also mechanically informed. I wonder for a while whether my next life project should be to become similarly informed and tooled up. I decide not to. Now I engage in talk with him. He is a ship designer. In fact he designed the enormous ship we are about to board. Its 5 years old which apparently is quite old for a ship. He left school at 14 and went into the navy where he started his design career and has been doing it ever since, spending much of the year in the few remaining European cities that still build ships, the Brits having stopped some years ago. He tells me that most ships are made in China or Korea nowadays. He has an intense gaze and speaks with a slight pressure. He’s fanatical about these mechanical things. He says he lives in Cornwall. Somehow I don’t think he has a wife and children as part of his life. We talk about VW Beetles we have both owned and I am shocked that I can remember mechanical details of these cars. My first one had 6volt electrics for example. I can imagine him as a mountaineer. I am attracted to something about the mechanical universe that men like him seem to live in, instead of mine full of doubt, complication and anxiety.

Once on the ferry I am now wise to their huge process (I meant to type ‘prices’) and have my supply of food and wine in my bag. My dinner on the way over cost £52, partly because I had a bizarre misconception about the exchange rate between Kroner and pounds ( remember I had Chablis with my meal). After catching up on some student work and my cabin picnic I settled down to watch Sans Soleil by Chris Marker after which my whole life began to feel poetic – even the continuous sound of the ship’s engine in the night when I went up on deck for a cigarette. I slept soundly and now it is 8.45 ship’s time. We are due to dock in Harwich at noon – no, 1pm Danish time.

The container set
Arriving in Harwich

The journey from Odense to Esberg via a few detours was 88.8 miles; moving average 49mph, highest speed 91.5mph.

Marking work in my nice cabin

Hmm… not a good look. Luckily no one else was in the cabin

Marking some student work here for the last two hours has made me hugely grumpy, marking work for a ridiculous module that is just one more of nursing’s typical exercises in learning to express banal ideas in a convoluted and ultimately unenlightening framework and vocabulary. I feel so sorry for these students having to struggle to learn this pointless skill and how it humiliates them and does exactly the opposite to what higher education is capable of at its best. I need some fresh air on deck. I am obviously cabin crazy.

The journey home is an enjoyable ride through some beautiful essex and suffolk villages.

Trip to Aarhus for a Confirmation

Today I rode the 180 mile round trip to Aarhus to join Niels in his 13 year old son’s Confirmation. This is a big family event involving a church ceremony followed by a lavish party with speeches and songs – about Albert, his son. It was a real insight into Danish family culture. People were hugely generous and went out of their way to speak English to me.

Niels reading out In the church

On the way back I tapped in the wrong address to my GPS. I put in the address I’d just come from instead of the hotel in Odense. As a result I got badly confused and in fact ended up turning into a junction going the wrong way in the traffic. It was a really ragged period of riding – but I made it back in once piece.

Journey detail: 180miles Average speed 55.3mph; max 92.9mph; moving time 3 hours 15 minutes.

A trip to Faaborg and Langeland

Faaborg is a pretty little town with a marina about 30k south of here on the coast and is lovely to cruise around in this beautiful Northern European sun that lights up the terracotta tiles on every roof here. An old south African man made conversation over my bike, saying that it looked Japanese. Some people want to know everything, so after I had told him, yes I had been a nurse, he told me how he had been operated on by Christian Bernard – well, it was actually his brother and he used to know his daughter too, his kidney was smashed and two men arrived in the hospital in dress suits having been called away from dinner, one of them being Christian Bernard’s brother – presumably. The town has a small cobbled market that sells plants and flowers and features a supposedly controversial statue of a giant drinking from a cow’s udder.

Faaborg 18th c merchant house museum in Faaborg



From there I rode along the coast toward Svendborg looking for the bridge over to a small long thin island called Langeland (I wonder why). Of course I got lost and ended up on a small island called – I cant find it in the guidebook. But thanks to my trusty GPs, I made my way across huge bridges to my goal.

Very rural but with a surprising amount of traffic. Ah, but getting back: what a gusty side wind, scary. Phew. No wonder I am having two glasses of wine before 5pm. Pics on my Flickr.

2009 Wednesday 22nd April: Off to Denmark via Harwich

Here’s a trip that I forgot that I made – on my blue Triumph to Denmark – to do a week’s work at the University of Southern Denmark or was it for a conference? and some small touring around Denmark. Most of my trips start with the 67.8 Miles from home in Cambridge to Harwich for the ferry, this time in 1.75 hours. And this time, unlike most trips which have been the short overnight sailing to Hook of Holland, this is a longer trip direct to Esbjerg in Denmark, a sailing that did not exist for many years after this journey.

heading off to Denmark
Fellow biking passenger riding to Helsinki on the Guzi he’s just bought in the UK
Suffolk or Essex coast waiting to leave

I am feeling euphoric as I lean on the rail on the sundeck of this ship sailing out of Harwich harbour. Its a beautiful sunny evening as we pass huge container ships on one side and a village church on the slightly more distant other shore. I think repeatedly that this beats flying, having just experienced two 24 hour flights through the US in the last week or so. Here, you just drive up to the kiosk, show your ticket and drive on, no passports, no worrying whether you have left your scissors or bottle of juice in your bag, no metal detectors, no frisking, no waiting in dry air-conditioned airports for hours, no close questioning from immigration officials. And we are on Danish time. Some announcements are only in Danish. My cabin has a tv and is on the same level as my motorbike, near the bottom of the ship, so I will know if we are sinking before most of my fellow passengers. While waiting to ride on, I chatted to the only other biker, a tall Finnish man who, he tells me, has just taken out a 5000 Euro loan to come to the UK and buy a 10 year old V-twin Moto Guzzi cruiser. He is very proud of it and ties it down on the deck with real care.

His journey home to Helsinki will involve another 500 miles of riding and two ferries – if I understood him rightly. The ride from Cambridge to Harwich was beautiful for the most part, through sunny Essex villages and twisty roads. I felt so competent on the bike for a change. The luggage is a treat, my expensive panniers, and my highly visible yellow Ortlieb bag on the rack, plus my loaded tank bag. Handling is fine though I ‘noticed’ it takes rather longer to slow down with this extra weight. Now for an hour or so preparation for the student workshop on Friday then I will venture upstairs to either the swanky looking restaurant or the down at heel bar which will probably be full of the slim Danish youth who are here in great numbers, calling out ‘Lars’ to eachother and spraying themselves with the scent testers in the duty free shop. The captain has just told us that we should have a perfect crossing and to get up on the deck around 9pm to watch what he is predicting will be a beautiful sunset.

Its 0120 Danish time and sleep refuses to take me into her soft embrace. Perhaps its the coffee I had after my hugely expensive meal (I will take my own food and wine on board for the return) or the constant movement and vibrating furniture or the vestiges of jet lag. I will do a bit of work…

Ear plugs make you go faster

After riding a motorcycle for 18 months I tried using ear plugs for the first time on a nice sunny run to Waitrose – its just the other side of town but can be reached nicely by taking the northern bypass then dropping on to the M11 for some miles, then a mile or two back in to town on the south side. The difference (wearing earplugs, I mean – not shopping at Waitrose) is astonishing – so much calmer none of that rattly wind sound at speeds higher than 60 mph. On a nice stretch it felt so much more effortless to reach easy three figure speeds (of course I’m talking about 69.9mph). Earplugs will be compulsory from now on.

Also out for the first time are my new Triumph Roadster gloves. They are lighter and less clumpy than my last ebay purchases, fasten well at the wrist so they don’t get torn off in an accident and, I think, look really good:
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Waitrose is also OK. I parked next to a BMW K1100. You don’t see many of those outside ASDA.