I’m just back from this trip. Before I transcribe my notes during the trip and post some photographs, here’s a summary of the accommodation and costs. Norway doesn’t have to be an expensive destination.
16 Jun 2023 Friday Catch ferry from Harwich 17 Jun 2023 Saturday arrive Hoek van Holland 17 Jun 2023 catch ferry from Emden, Germany 18 Jun 2023 Sunday Arrive Kristiansand 10am Take E18 toward Oslo then left to E16 toward Honnefos and Lillehammer 18 Jun 2023 Sunday Camping near Honnefos Utvika Camping 19 Jun 2023 Monday Camping south of Trondheim St Ren Camping Stoeren 20 Jun 2023 Tuesday Hotel in Fru Haugans Hotel Mosjeen 21 Jun 2023 Wednesday Cabin in Haugen Camping Trofors (off E6) visited arctic circle 22 Jun 2023 Thursday Cabin in Orkanger SW of Trondheim Hogkjolen Fjel Fannrem 23 Jun 2023 Friday Camping in Alesund at Volsdalen (V busy and noisy) 24 Jun 2023 Saturday Cabin at Botnen Camping cabin with sink
25 Jun 2023 at 18:00 – 19:00 Sunday Camping at Austre Bokn windy by road embankment 26 Jun 2023 at 18:00 – 19:00 Monday Cabin at Ogna camping night 1 27 Jun 2023 at 18:00 – 19:00 Tuesday Cabin at Ogna camping night 2 28 Jun 2023 at 1700 (Check-in from 1300) Wednesday Kristiansand ferry to Emden leaves 29 Jun 2023 at 10:00 Thursday arrive Emden 29 Jun 2023 at 2200hrs Catch ferry from Hoek van Holland 30 Jun 2023 at 07:00 Friday Arrive Harwich – home
£
25 13 114 29 43 14 51
36 36
Total accommodation
£361
Fuel (approx.)
£220
Ferries from Harwich and Emden
£1133
Ferries in Norway
£30
TOTAL excl. food
£1744
I put together my route from Missenden Flyer’s publishing of Motorrad Tour’s Arctic circle tour. Motorrad tours charged £4500 which I presume included the ferries and hotels and TMF estimated he spent an additional £1500 in petrol and other costs, making a total of £6000. My approach was more down to earth which suited me better. I discovered Cabins on campsites and preferable to my ‘light is right’ but very small tent as well as hugely cheaper to hotels. I’ll write about these in a separate post.
Well, not quite that bad – just a difficult choice. A huge leap in interestingness of motorcycle travel video is some variation from the overused first person POV helmet camera footage to actual footage of rider riding into and out of shot on some beautiful corner on a twisty road. We’re so used to seeing seamless continuity on feature films that we don’t even notice it on motoYoutubers efforts, yet effort it takes to achieve. We must make some unconscious assumption that there is a film crew riding with our favourite motoYoubuer. Maybe on occasions there is but often its not the case. And how’s it done? With a laborious setting up of a shot in advance: scouting, stopping, riding back, getting out your tripod, trusting leaving your beloved camera running and unattended while you jump back on the bike, ride off, turn round and ride back into shot looking nonchalant; then stop again, ride back, pack everything away and ride off and repeat a few times a day. You really wouldn’t get very far in a day. It takes high motivation to record something to go to all this trouble. The other far less troublesome use of tripods is to film yourself unboxing and trying out various gadgets from camping stoves to er… new tripods.
So, having thought that I might just possibly try this, at least use number two, I am searching for the ideal lightweight tripod. There are actually a huge number to try to chose from. The high end carbon models cost over £300. They tend to get good reviews – but that’s a lot to spend on something that may be a very short-lived experiment. Then there are the scores of mid to cheap models, often praised highly by Youtubers who probably have only used them once or twice and like the design. Amazon reviews provide usually more sober evaluations. These cheap tripods are cheap because they might use a soft component where a slightly expensive piece of aluminium would have been better. So reviews show that these are often not very strong. I have been on the verge of ordering so many of these then read poor reviews and stopped in my tracks. The latest is this:
I have never heard of Sirui – but then I have never heard of most of these brands. Its small, its light and its cheap. I may risk it. But will I risk actually trying it out on a windy corner in Norway on my next trip?
Its 180 miles from Hoek Van Holland to Eemshaven where a brand new ferry company has just started a route to Kristiansand on the southern tip of Norway, saving one night in Germany compared with the journey from Kiel to Oslo. And the price is a little cheaper. The cost in time is a rather longer journey in Norway.
From Oslo the route to Mo I Rana is 623 miles; from Kristiansand its 793 miles – 3 hours more riding on day one.
I made it onto the ferry and parked on level 3 green stairs – I must remember that. This morning at the campsite I was offered coffee by two separate people. This made me feel more welcome than my arrival yesterday evening into what felt like an impenetrable packed crowd of Spanish all speaking too loud (that says more about me than them). I should not be surprised, but I am, by how much nervousness can influence my sense of the atmosphere in a place. But it was noisy last night on the campsite with dogs barking, thudding disco distant beats and camping neighbours talking. But I had a good strategy. After an ok pizza and beer in their cafe bar I walked on the sand in the beautiful evening and watched some families ride hired horses in circles cleverly instructing well trained horses to make smaller and smaller circles. All in the slowly goldening evening. When I did return I lay down in my tent and listened to some music I had on my phone with H’s earbuds (that I had thoughtfully brought with me). Leonard Cohen, Tom Waits and then my tracks on SoundCloud. I learned or noticed for the first time that Leonard Cohens live recordings were all about emotional and sonic crescendo with vocals (both his and his amazing backing singers) and instruments soaring to some hallelujah. Something to take to my own music though plenty of songs don’t do that big emotional thing. Kraftwerk for example. They just go on and on.
This morning I lingered on the beach then left at about 10.30.
was this the morning or the evening before?
Packing up
By 11.30 I was at the ferry port and whisked through at such speed that the immigration officers had to call me back without a smile as I obliviously rode past the place where I should have showed my passport. Did I say I have decided to get a new flipping front helmet?
Fellow travellers
Leaving Santander – a beautiful resort not just a ferry port
On the sun deck
We got on first, about 6 or so riding bikes all in glorious sunshine. And I was showered and changed and up on the for once really sunny sun deck 40 minutes before we left diagonally at first then we gained more speed. Santander and its long beach on a spit was stunning in the sunshine with sailing vessels of all kind across the wide water. Then I slept as the wind seemed to smash into the side of the boat where my outside cabin is. Everything seemed to rattle and vibrate. But still I managed to snatch some brief sleep.
Brittany ferries apologised for the lack of staff to serve us our hugely expensive meal so we leant against the swaying wall in a long queue for self service. I would have enjoyed my meal and chilled wine a little more if the sea were slightly calmer. But I am back after some fresh air on my bed.
As usual I woke in the night and instead of lying awake I read some more All Tomorrow’s Parties. Gibson is the perfect author for these trips.
First sight of Blighty
What worked well on this trip: my helmet lock and disk lock. They were easy to use on supermarket and other brief visits; the bike apart from the odd clutch problem before I even left England. It was easily manoeuvrable on campsites and other spaces, it would have been fine in the ACT if I had more skills and confidence, I think it needs some device to alter the low end fuelling also discovered by some searching . I think I will purchase (though now on a closer look, I am not that sure). The tent worked fine. The Klim gear: It’s ok as it’s inconspicuous but in hot weather it is undeniably hot. It has too many pockets or rather I did not use them well and had too many things in them so I was always searching for things I thought I had lost – like my phone. The Nexx helmet and its own Bluetooth set up. It did the job but putting in the earbuds each time I start off was annoying and they pulled out when caught on something unpredictability as I moved my head to look over my shoulder. The helmet inner is getting tatty and is falling out from so many rewirings of earphones. It needs sorting properly. Needs replacing. New Sony still camera good but I didn’t use to its potential. Drip coffeemaker is fun but it took a while to get the strength right. It flows too quickly. I think it is a design fault. A porcelain or even a plastic version just has holes at the bottom. This is one big sieve. Mosko Moto gear: that’s a topic for a post of it’s own (see Previous post). At the very least I need one more dry bag in the mix. I envied the bikers and the bikes will good old hard panniers. My Xero Z-trail camping shoes: These worked well and were comfortable and took up hardly any space. Much better than the too small canvas shoes I had before. Garmin Inreach.
Garmin EarthMate
I didn’t really need it (little surprise there). Sharing my location was slightly nice and could have been important. Camping clothes: ok and take up little space – if boring – but who cares?
Total miles was 1,629. My GPS unfortunately deleted the first half of the tracks. Very odd.
I’m writing this sitting on a rocky wall, dangling my boots over the beach just outside Rogaton Laredo campsite. I packed up at Leon this morning dismantling the one person town that I had built, my home from home, and was on the road by 11 heaving a sigh of relief as I rode off. There’s always something of a release to get out on the road. I didn’t surrender to the easy option of letting the gps take me all the way here on motorways but instead persuaded it to route me on some N roads, partly through the Picos to the coast. I’m so pleased. The route took me to a road where I looked down on the clouds around the mountains. I thought that Spain had saved me the most spectacular view till my last full day of riding. Eventually I had to join the motorway just down from the coast with the occasional view of the sea so I made quicker progress but it was a tiring last third of the ride. Once in Laredo the place felt so unfamiliar that I began to wonder if I had chosen the right town after all. I followed two huge caravans with F plates all the way here. I was determined to get in here first (in case they took the last spaces or more likely that they took up ages of time of the person running the site). They parked outside and I rode straight in. The lady in the desk said they could squeeze me it. This place is heaving with caravans and families older than in Rio Ulla. Someone had to move their car outside to free up a small space of grass that fits both my small tent and my motorcycle. It’s nice to need so little space.
Someone is riding along the beach on a horse.
The campsite web presence is all about sustainability but to me it seem just like every other busy site crammed full of vacationers. The location is good though. It would be a pretty sad site to have nothing special about it. The have a cafe bar here that serves food from 6.30 so I will try it to avoid unpacking all my cooking equipment and to eat more of the unhealthy food I seem to be eating for some at least of this trip. I’m glad I had a good ride today as my sense of killing time for these last few days was starting to rise up.
I am opposite a family who are constantly talking and disputing now doing some repairs with a power tool. I need to chill or to go for a walk.
A couple of minutes walk, almost a turn around, and you are on this beach and all it’s beauty.
an antidote to the super crowded campsite
Pizza and a beer in the site’s cafe was fine and seemed to cost 11 Euros. No regrets.
In the MUSAC in Leon. I’ve just been ushered in to watch a rather slight ‘performance’ of a smoke machine and some lights changing colour. It made the phrase ‘dreams gone up in smoke’ come to mind. I was thinking about the two years of planning applications now finally rejected. But then I considered ‘what was the dream?’ Not that specific design of a house (that was rejected) for sure. More the experience that a place to live out in the country that contrasts with tight London can offer. That can take many forms.
There was an exhibition of ceramics in the gallery but I can’t find any information now about it so can’t write about the artist.
You have to guess – is this part of the exhibition or part of the facilities?
MUSAC just behind the block of flats.
After my visit to the art gallery I walked around part of the town, perhaps not the most attractive part, and sat at a bar to have an orange juice and a bready snack. Then I sat on a bench in a shady park and was shat on by a bird – so moved on. Luckily I always carry tissues in case of urgent need.