Day 6 Saturday 20th July
I am moving into a different headspace. Its something about the discussions I have had with people here, including the hosts who have built up a lot of historical knowledge about the Camino walk and in particular this apparently lesser walked primitivo – which this hotel is sited on. And something about spending three hours today walking on the Camino route, with the smell of cow shit and eucalyptus, farmyard buildings, sleepy kittens lying in the middle of the warm road and the varied greetings of walkers – proper walkers. One group was boisterous, one or two extremely taciturn, most friendly.

I came back at about 2 and ate pistachios and Brie washed down with a beer I picked up a few days back. Since then I have been catching up, and trying to tell the GPS exactly where I need to go tomorrow. It seems there are two separate locations available – and obviously only one of them is right. Even the GPS coordinates point to what looks like the wrong location. It will be about 3 and a half hours travelling, and mostly on main roads but perhaps on a Sunday the roads are (even) quieter. Time seems to have slowed down since I have been here. I can’t believe that I still have two more hotels to travel to and experience. Tomorrow’s is fairly near the coast to the north west of the Picos and the last, in a way the most intriguing, is close to the Bardenas Reales dessert which I have only seen in photographs.