In August 2009 I found myself buying the bike I had imagined that I would have to wait for an inheritance before affording. Luckily a cheque from some journal work for a publisher coincided with the appearance on ebay of a locally placed 1200GS Adventure – with, crucially, a low seat and at an affordable price – and aluminium adventure panniers. How could I let this one slip? It felt agricultural compared to the Triumph. It needed a new clutch (it was nearly impossible to put it in neutral) which BMW paid for even though it was out of warranty. Ah, happy days. It was a handful to ride though, at slow speed, and to park but it was clunky and eccentric – in a nice way, and air/oil cooled. It had a 33 litre tank but the fuel gauge was dodgy and I got onto my third before I traded it in.